#Ibooster f1 manual#
#Ibooster f1 full#

As I recall the buggy one came from a 2019 Honda Accord, the one in the Hilux might've also been an Accord, I think Chrysler Pacificas have them, Teslas have them, they are extremely common. The iBooster is built by Bosch for multiple OEMs, and my understanding is the unit is the exact same (there is a gen 1 and gen 2) and from the master cylinder onward is customized by the OEM.

#Ibooster f1 full#

The iBooster is extremely simple, has tons of braking performance, can function even if the engine is off at full power, and is very modular and runs about $500 or less all set and done. The iBooster can also be tied into the CANBUS and linked to ABS and traction control (above my pay grade). Additionally since it's ignition controlled, as long as my master kill switch is on I have full braking performance. I barely have to touch the brakes and there is barely any effort, a child could do it all day. I have a 4:1 pedal ratio, meaning the pedal has a total travel of about 5' and I have had plenty of braking to lock up my 40s with stock brakes. I have driven my buggy twice with the iBooster, once around the neighborhood and once doing a sand hollow loop. Pneumatic (vacuum) assisted brakes are typically pretty huge, so was very intrigued by the iBooster. Hydro boost is it's own animal that I don't have knowledge of.

#Ibooster f1 manual#

I originally bought a Wilwood manual brake setup from Busted Knuckle and did all the brake calculations and tried different pedals, but at the end of the day there was no getting around needing a long stroke from the pedal to get lots of mechanical advantage to get good braking performance. The braking performance on the Hilux is stupid good, and arguably more so on the buggy.

Since I watched that video, I've installed two, one on a 1978 Toyota Hilux that weighs 2000lbs and now my buggy that weighs about 4000lbs with 40s and stock super duty brakes, and I also have a third unit waiting to be installed on my 1977 FJ40. I initially was turned on to the iBooster by the Youtube channel SuperFastMatt and he has an extensive video on it here: This is meant to give information and add options when it comes to braking, not to say it's better or worse than other options.

It just is not internally connected so you need to wire it.I didn't see anything on irate about the iBooster so wanted to start a thread about it now that I have some evidence of it being good for crawling. The travel sensor itself is part of the iBooster assembly, see below photo’s. Main difference is that the GEN2 no longer uses pin 17 for permanent 12V+ to the ECU and above all the travel sensor connector and it’s pin numbering is different. To a large extent the wiring of the GEN1 and GEN2 is identical. Any input or experience on that is welcome. It is possible to control the iBooster over CAN, we’ll dive into that in the future. Below it will be explained in more detail. Furthermore it requires 12V+ and GND inputs. In that mode the iBooster just uses the input from the travel pedal sensor (integrated onto the iBooster) to operate. Instead we rely on the ‘failsafe mode’ of the iBooster. Here these two are not used and instead of crimp pins, blind plugs are provided in the connector kits. The iBooster ECU has two CAN-BUS connections which are connected to the vehicle CAN and the Yaw sensor. Moreover you will be able to fully integrate the iBooster into your wiring loom. It becomes quite straightforward using the GEN1 connector kit and the GEN2 connector kit available from EVcreate with all connectors, terminals / crimp pins, seals and blind plugs. And where to connect which wire to what anyway? This article explains the ins and outs of wiring the Tesla iBooster into your car. In that case you will still need to extend wires and attach them to your wiring loom. If you are lucky they do come with connectors and a bit of wiring. Most Tesla iBoosters you can buy on eBay or elsewhere come without connectors.